Destinations
I planned my trip to Botswana even before visiting the more popular wildlife destinations of Kenya and Tanzania. The appeal of exploring offbeat countries, untouched by mass tourism, promised raw, authentic experiences. Our trip evoked mixed emotions—while we witnessed breathtaking wildlife and adventure, we also faced the stark reality of a region suffering from severe drought in 2024. The Chobe River, home to hippos and crocodiles, had diminished significantly, affecting animal sightings. Despite these challenges, the uniqueness of the experience made it a truly rewarding journey.
There are two key wildlife areas in Botswana that strike the perfect balance between being well-developed yet retaining their raw, untamed allure. Chobe National Park is famous for its massive elephant population—we witnessed hundreds, along with giraffes, buffalos, lions, and a variety of antelopes including impalas, kudus, and lechwes. The Okavango Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of Africa’s most biodiverse ecosystems. Both regions are also birdwatcher’s havens, home to over 400 species, including African fish eagles and carmine bee-eaters.
Botswana offers a range of experiences suitable for all types of travelers. From luxurious resorts to rustic lodges, it caters to every budget. For the more adventurous, camping within national parks is an exciting option, where you can stay in tents, barbecue under the stars, and even use makeshift bush toilets! This immersive experience brings you close to the wildlife, with the thrilling possibility of animals wandering into your camp. However, it’s not for everyone—those seeking comfort might find the ruggedness too intense for their liking.
We decided to combine both experiences—spending 3 nights in a comfortable lodge at Chobe National Park, followed by 2 nights camping in the untamed wilderness of the Okavango Delta. This gave us the best of both worlds: the comfort and relaxation of lodge living, paired with the raw adventure of tent camping in the bush.
When to visit Botswana
The peak season for visiting Botswana is from May to July, offering ideal conditions for wildlife viewing. During this period, the dry season begins after the rains, ensuring clear skies and lush rivers and deltas at their fullest. August brings warmer weather, thinning the crowds, which is perfect for those seeking tranquillity. However, this is also when water levels start to recede, drying up the rivers and deltas. The year we visited was especially dry due to a drought, a fact locals mentioned frequently.
Botswana Visa
While most nationalities are eligible for a visa on arrival, the policy for Indians had changed shortly before our trip. We had to apply for an eVisa in advance, and unlike Zambia, where we received approval in just three days, Botswana’s visa didn’t arrive even by our intended entry date—over a month after applying! Faced with the dilemma of whether to cancel or proceed, we took a chance and arrived at the Kazungula border. Thankfully, we were granted an “emergency visa” after paying an additional fee. So, if you’re required to apply for an evisa before your visit, I highly recommend applying at least 5-6 weeks in advance of your intended arrival date.
What to carry when visiting Botswana
If you're traveling during the peak season, pack some layers as temperatures can drop significantly during early mornings and late nights. In August, daytime temperatures reach around 40°C, but plummet to 10°C at night! Additionally, bring sunscreen, hats, sunglasses, sturdy walking shoes, and insect repellent. If you're staying in tents, bed linens, towels, and blankets will be provided, so no need to worry about those. However, it’s a good idea to bring along snacks, wine, or any other indulgences you might enjoy during your stay. While most supermarkets, restaurants, and shops accept credit cards, you’ll need cash for souvenirs at street markets, taxi fares, and tipping, which is appreciated but not obligatory.
5 Days in Botswana Itinerary
Days 1 - 3: Chobe National Park
Kasane is the town that serves as the gateway to Chobe National Park and is just a 15-minute drive from the Kazungula border, making it convenient for those arriving by road from Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls) or Zambia (Livingstone). Within Chobe National Park, there are only two accommodation options: Chobe Game Lodge, the sole permanent lodge inside the park, and temporary camps (tents). The lodge is quite expensive due to its exclusivity, while the tented camps may not suit everyone’s preferences. As a result, many visitors opt to stay in lodges outside the park and book daily game drives that include pickup and drop-off from their accommodation.
Most lodges can assist with booking safaris, so there's no need to arrange them in advance. In fact, the prices quoted at the lodge were significantly more reasonable than those we found online, making it a better option to book directly through the lodge.
River Safari
This 3-hour boat safari runs three times daily, but the sunset cruise (3:30–6:30 pm) offers a dual experience—you’ll witness both the wildlife and the stunning Chobe sunset over the river. While on board, you can enjoy a snack and drinks as you watch for riverine wildlife. We spotted several hippos, crocodiles, and birds in the water, as well as elephants and wild buffaloes that come to drink in the cooler evening hours. We even watched a herd of elephants cross the river, an incredible sight!
Game Drives
While you can enjoy multiple game drives throughout the day to boost your chances of spotting the Big 5, the early morning drive is particularly effective for catching a glimpse of the big cats. We were fortunate to see a lion family of six adults and six cubs feasting on a buffalo, though we missed the actual hunt. We had to keep our distance, so binoculars were essential, but the sight was well worth it!
In addition to this thrilling encounter, we saw hundreds of elephants, giraffes, and impalas. Although we searched for leopards, we had no luck, and the absence of leopards and rhinoceroses meant we didn't quite complete our Big 5 list. As we were frequently reminded, Chobe National Park is renowned for its elephants rather than its big cats, which is something to consider when planning your visit.
You can either choose to book multiple 3-hour game drives in a day or book the full day experience which includes multiple game drives as well as meals (breakfast & lunch). We chose the former to have more flexibility in our schedule and allow for some relaxation time in between.
Sunset & drinks @ Chobe Marina Lodge
Chobe Marina Lodge is one of the most beautiful and immersive places to stay in Kasane. While it can be quite pricey and may be out of budget for many, it offers a unique experience. The lodge serves as a starting point for the River Safari, making it convenient to begin or end your adventure with a cocktail at the lovely sunset deck. The tropical rainforest ambiance, combined with the wooden deck overlooking the river, provides a stunning view of the sunset. It’s a laid-back and relaxed spot to soak in the nature and serenity of this lovely place. Even if you’re not taking the river cruise from here or staying here, you can always just walk in and enjoy some drinks & snacks!
Sunset & drinks @ Sedudu Sunset Bar
Yet another place to watch the lovely sunset over Chobe River is Sedudu Sunset Bar. Located at Chobe Safari Lodge, it offers a stunning setting overlooking Sedudu Island & the river, making it the perfect spot to relax and take in the natural beauty of the area.
The bar is known for its laid-back vibe, making it an ideal place to unwind after a day of exploring. In the evening, you can dine under the stars, either at the terrace restaurant or by the light of a hurricane lamp, adding to the magical experience.
Suggested mid-budget lodge to stay in Kasane: Tlou Safari Lodge.
Days 3 – 5: Okavango Delta
When we visited the Okavango Delta, we chose a rugged and adventurous approach—camping right in the heart of the Delta. This incredible experience, known as the “mokoro safari”, was arranged by Shipungo Safari & Tours and was seamlessly organized, giving us an authentic and unforgettable bush adventure. The best part? The company partners with local villagers, providing employment opportunities and empowering the community. This approach not only makes the experience sustainable but also allows visitors to contribute directly to the livelihoods of the people who call the Delta home.
Our visit to the Delta was at right after the peak of tourism season, at the beginning of low season, due to which we ended up being the only two visitors in our camping trip. However, there were other campers in the area, and our camp had 4 members of the staff, including our tour guide, a personal chef to cook all our meals during the stay, and 2 assistants to help with all arrangement such as putting up the tents, taking care of the logistics, etc. Although a larger group of people would’ve been a lot more fun, we still enjoyed our little 3-day adventure.
How to reach Okavango Delta?
The gateway to Okavango Delta is a city called Maun, which is connected by several domestic and a few regional international flights. We took a 1-hour flight from Kasane (Chobe National Park) to Maun, and Shipungo Safari & Tours arranged for us to be picked up (as well as dropped off at the end of the 3-day trip) from the airport. The connectivity is limited, which means you might need to work your plans around the flight operating schedule. From Maun Airport, the ride to the mokoro station (canoe station)depends on the water levels in the Okavango Delta during your travel season. During high water levels, the station is about an hour from the airport, but during low levels, it can be around 2.5 hours away, deep into the forest on unpaved roads.
Another way to get to the Okavango Delta is through private chartered flights, which are more expensive but offer several advantages. These flights provide a more personalized and flexible travel experience, allowing you to fly directly to your camp or lodge without the need for multiple transfers. These need to be arranged in advance either through your tour operator or booked through MacAir.
What to carry for my Fully Catered Mokoro Safari experience?
Try to keep your luggage minimal since you will be staying in tents overnight, and there’s limited storage space inside. If you have a long trip and are carrying a lot of luggage, there are two options:
- Store your luggage at the Maun Airport and pack a backpack with only essentials to carry with you to the tent
- Shipungo Safari & Tours have a storage facility outside the airport where they can help you keep the larger bags
All the food is taken care of, so you’ll only need to bring any additional drinks or snacks if you wish. Shipungo also provided a bottle of wine for us, which was a pleasant surprise, even though we had brought our own. The tents have an attached makeshift toilet, essentially a hole in the ground with a temporary seat and flap. For the shower, there’s a setup where the safari staff collects river water, hangs it on a tree next to your tent, and you can pull a string to use it like a shower. Personally, I didn’t find the river water very clean, so you might prefer to bring dry shampoo and wet towels for cleaning up instead.
Additionally, pack the usual safari attire. You’ll be walking a lot, so ensure you have comfortable footwear, plenty of sunscreen, and hats. Wear soft colors that blend with the forest to avoid attracting attention and potentially scaring the animals away. Don’t forget mosquito repellent, as there are many insects and mosquitoes in the forest. And don’t forget cash, as you’ll probably want to tip the staff at the end of your 3-day fully catered Mokoro Safari experience.
The 3 days, 2 nights itinerary for the Mokoro Safari experience
Day 1: Pick up from Maun, sunset walking safari
Shipungo Safari & Tours will arrange your pick-up at Maun Airport based on your arrival time. From there, you’ll embark on a road journey to the mokoro station.
Upon arrival at the mokoro station, you’ll board a mokoro (a kayak), and your guide will take you to your camping spot, which is another 30-45 minutes into the thick forest. The ride on the channel in the sturdy but low-lying mokoro is a unique and surreal experience. You’ll sail in the quiet surroundings, watching hippos bathing, wild buffaloes running, red lechwes grazing, and giraffes drinking from the channel.
Once you reach your camping spot, the safari staff will set up the tents for you. You can then enjoy a cup of tea or coffee, snacks, or lunch, and relax before heading out for your sunset mokoro safari. The first day is relaxed, giving you ample time to read a book, listen to music, or simply soak in the forest atmosphere. In the evening, Shipungo Safari’s chef will prepare a hot dinner, and you can enjoy singing songs or chatting by the bonfire before retiring to your tent for the night.
Day 2: Sunrise Walking Safari, sunset Mokoro Safari
The itinerary can be customized to suit the mood and needs of your safari camp group. On this day, we woke up at 5:30 am for a sunrise walking safari in the forest. Early morning is the best time to spot most animals, especially cats, as they are nocturnal and active before retiring during the hot morning hours. This is when they either hunt for their last meal or head to the water for a drink before finding a place to nap. We saw wild African dogs, spotted hyenas, elephants, giraffes, and wildebeests, but unfortunately, no cats.
As the day warms up, you’ll return to the campsite for breakfast and some rest. You can ask the safari staff to find a spot where you can swim in the channel, though I personally found the water not very clean and chose not to risk it. In August, afternoons can be quite warm, so we preferred relaxing in our tents until lunchtime. If you’re in a larger group, this is a good time to unwind, play games, and socialize.
In the late afternoon, you can go for another sunset mokoro safari or a walking safari, depending on your preference. This is also a great time to see hippos bathing. Both the sunset and sunrise on the delta are stunning, so the more you experience them, the better. Once back at the camp, enjoy some wine, a freshly cooked hot dinner by the chef, and unwind with singing and dancing around the bonfire.
.Day 3: Sunrise Mokoro Safari, return to Maun
This is your last day at the campsite. You may wake up for a sunrise mokoro safari, have breakfast, and then head back to the mokoro station and eventually the airport, depending on your flight time. Keep in mind that the mokoro journey back may sometimes take longer than expected due to a ‘hippo jam’ or other unforeseen circumstances. After all, you’re in the wild and must always maintain a safe distance from the animals.
Rest assured, the staff at Shipungo Safari & Tours are highly skilled at manoeuvring the mokoros, keeping you safe from the animals, and ensuring you reach your flight on time. It’s time to say goodbye (and show your appreciation) for all the staff that made your stay in the camp enjoyable, safe & memorable.
Additional & optional: The scenic flight over Okavango Delta
A very unique way of experiencing the Okavango Delta is through a scenic flight over the Delta, which offers breathtaking views, giving you a unique perspective of this stunning landscape. You can book these at Maun Airport itself as soon as you step outside.
From the air, you have the vantage point to view the intricate network of winding waterways, lagoons, and vast savannahs. The aerial view reveals the delta’s true beauty, with its lush greenery and diverse wildlife. The flights also provide an excellent opportunity to spot a variety of animals, including herds of elephants, giraffes, buffalo, and antelope, which you may not be able to spot while on a walk or on the mokoro.
Scenic flights typically last between 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the tour you choose. The flights are usually conducted in small aircraft like the Cessna 206, ensuring everyone gets a window seat for unobstructed views. Early morning and late afternoon flights are recommended for the best light and wildlife activity. The 30-min flight usually costs around $300 per person. Some tours offer additional options, such as a 15-minute champagne stop, which can add around $45 to $50 per person.
