Azerbaijan in winter – the perfect 1-week itinerary

Azerbaijan has recently emerged as a popular destination, thanks to a massive tourism campaign by the government. This campaign highlighted why Azerbaijan is an attractive spot, particularly for Indians and GCC residents. As someone who falls into both categories, I couldn't ignore the influx of content on social media. Although I wasn't initially intrigued by what the country had to offer, I was looking for a winter escape with snow, and Azerbaijan seemed to tick all the boxes:

a) A short and inexpensive flight from Dubai (3 hours, $250 return tickets per person)

b) No visa hassles (e-visa for Indians with a 2-day turnaround time and visa on arrival for UAE residents)

c) Plenty of snow and snow activities

We spent a week (7 days) in Azerbaijan, which was long enough to have a relaxed itinerary with ample time to immerse ourselves and take it easy. My itineraries are usually packed with activities each day, so this was a bit unusual for me. If you prefer a more active travel style, this itinerary can be achieved in 5 days.

Driving in Azerbaijan

My husband and I love driving whenever possible, as it offers us immense flexibility. As off-beat travelers and adventurers, it's crucial for us to avoid a rigid itinerary and leave room for spontaneous visits to places recommended by locals. We've driven across the world, which gives us the confidence to do so in smaller, less developed countries. While Azerbaijan is geographically in Europe, its infrastructure outside Baku isn't as developed as in most European countries. Nevertheless, if you're a confident and experienced driver, it's possible to drive in Azerbaijan.

Since we were visiting in winter and neither of us had experience driving in snow and ice conditions, we decided to rent a car with a driver for a change. There are both advantages and disadvantages to this approach. The driver brings extensive knowledge and experience about the country, so you can rely on their skills and expertise to get you from one place to another. We encountered some challenging driving conditions due to the snow, and we were glad we weren't driving at those times. However, we found that having to define our exact itinerary in advance and lacking flexibility for last-minute changes without incurring extra costs was a downside. If we had been traveling in summer or warmer weather, we would definitely have chosen to self-drive to avoid these issues.

We paid about $500 for 7 days, which included everything (driver's accommodation, food, and petrol), making it quite reasonable and affordable. However, while we rented a sedan, renting a 4x4 would be more advisable, especially in winter (though it might be slightly pricier).

Baku is crowded but also walkable, so I recommend renting a car only when you plan to leave the city. For longer distances within Baku, download Bolt (which you can also use from the airport to your hotel on the day you arrive); it's very easy to hail a ride on this app and quite affordable too!

Where to stay in Azerbaijan

We focused our trip primarily on our accommodations. Since there weren't many activities or sights to see, we ensured that our experiences at each stay made up for it, creating a memorable winter trip in Azerbaijan. The variety of accommodations we chose played a significant role in these experiences, and we were extremely satisfied with most of them.

Note: While most hotels in Baku accept credit card payments, those outside the city often prefer cash. Unless you're staying exclusively in 4 or 5-star hotels, be prepared to carry cash for payments, even if the booking states that credit cards are accepted.

In Baku: I recommend choosing accommodation in the city center for easy access to all the sights. We found a very reasonably priced hotel, Center Hotel Baku, located right next to Fountain Square, in the heart of the city's vibrant action. While the amenities were basic and the rooms small, it’s a no-frills property that provides convenient access to everything.

Another option is Passage Boutique Hotel which is slightly outside Nizami Street but still well-located and within walking distance of all major attractions, offering decent amenities.

In Quba: We discovered a unique place in Quba that is equally amazing in both summer and winter. Known as Quba Sweet Homes, this glamping site features dome-style rooms that offer excellent views of the night sky from the warmth of your bed. Some domes even have heated outdoor pools with stunning mountain views. On-site activities like quad biking tours make it the perfect spot to relax and immerse yourself in nature.

In Shahdag: Although we don't usually book luxury hotels, we couldn't resist Pik Palace Shahdag which boasts an outdoor heated pool with a backdrop of snowy mountains. This hotel is ideally located for those looking to ski or engage in other snow activities and is one of the few hotels in Shahdag. It's conveniently situated at the top of the Shahdag mountain coaster, eliminating the need for a car or shuttle bus to reach the ski lift or other activities.

In Ismayilli: While most people choose to stay in Gabala, which is an hour further from Ismayilli and offers many activities including a ski resort, we found an amazing place called Runaway House Qalaciq in Ismayilli. The road to get there is slightly bumpy and rough, but it's drivable in a sedan with only 2.5 km of unpaved road. Once you arrive, you'll find a hidden gem with gorgeous rooms overlooking the mountains, farm animals like horses, bonfire pits to keep you warm at night, and a fantastic restaurant that offers all meals for those who prefer not to cook in the self-catered rooms.

1 week in Azerbaijan in winter

Day 1: Baku

Most flights will arrive in the capital city of Baku which is the perfect place to start your itinerary. Start by exploring Nizami Street, a bustling pedestrian street in downtown Baku, known for its vibrant shopping, dining, and entertainment options, as well as its historic architecture. This is the most happening part of Baku and even boasts a Christmas Market during the holiday season, that starts about a week before Christmas. While it is highly rare for it to snow in Baku in December, we were extremely lucky to experience snowfall the day we landed, making our visit even more charming & magical! It is also not uncommon to find mulled wine in restaurants in Baku, the perfect accompaniment to this season.

From here, you can walk to Icheri Sheher, also known as the Old City. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the historical core of Baku, featuring ancient walls, narrow alleys, and significant landmarks like the Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. I absolutely loved walking the cobbled stone streets of this area. The souvenir shops here are excellent so make sure to do your shopping.

Then, head to Baku Boulevard, a scenic promenade along the Caspian Sea, offering beautiful views, lush parks, and various attractions, making it a popular spot. You could just walk along the boulevard and enjoy the sea views on one side & the iconic landmarks buildings of Baku on the other; take a photo along the I LOVE Baku sign, walk into one of the charming cafes along the boulevard or visit one of the attractions such as the Carpet Museum or Mini Venice.

Mini Venice is a cute recreation of Venice's canals located within Baku Boulevard, where you can enjoy peaceful & inexpensive gondola rides amidst beautifully designed waterway or simply enjoy a drink at one of the restaurants located amidst the canals.

From here, take the funicular (or climb the MANY stairs) to the Highland Park Viewpoint, an excellent place perched on a hill, offering breathtaking panoramic views of Baku, the Caspian Sea, and the Flame Towers. This is also a great place to catch the sunset.

Dinner recommendation: For excellent Azerbaijani local food, head to Qaynana Restaurant located in the Old City.

Day 2: Quba

On this day, head to Quba, located at a 2-hour drive from Baku. Here’s what you can do in Quba:

• Chanlibel Lake: You can do boating in this lake or simply enjoy a nature walk around it. During winter months, the whole area was full of snow, making it look very pretty & magical.
• Qechresh Forest: This was actually quite magical during winter months, with the branches of the trees hanging over the road, laden with thick snow. Just driving through the forest itself is a lovely experience. I also loved the many restaurants in the middle of the forest that offered a unique seating experience – heated, transparent glass domes with 360 degrees view of the exteriors.
• Qechresh Suspension Bridge: A stunning structure that offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape, located in the Qechresh Forest area. The bridge provides a unique vantage point to appreciate the natural beauty of the region, including lush greenery during summer & snow laden vistas during winters.
• Afurdja Waterfall: Getting here can be slightly tough, especially during winter, when you’re likely to require a 4x4 vehicle to navigate the icy & snowy conditions. Worry not; if you do not have a 4x4, you will find several drivers & guides willing to take you to the waterfall for a price.

Overnight stay in Quba.

Day 3: Shahdag

Spend the whole day in Shahdag enjoying snow & snow activities. Shahdag is only an hour’s drive from Quba so you can start the day by directly heading to Shahdag Mountain Resort, a premier destination for both winter and summer activities, nestled in the Greater Caucasus range, which is laden with snow during the winters.

For skiing enthusiasts, the resort features 28 slopes and 17 lifts, catering to all skill levels. Others can enjoy snowboarding, snowmobiling, and even a thrilling ride on the Shahdag Coaster. Some of these activities such as tubing & snowmobiling only begin late December/ early January when there’s enough snow. We were slightly unlucky that it hadn’t started yet when we went.

During the summer, Shahdag transforms into an adventure hub with activities such as hiking, horseback riding, quad biking, and paragliding. The resort also offers a variety of dining options, from local cuisine to international dishes, ensuring a delightful culinary experience. The Shahdag coaster is open all seasons and is one of the best experiences to be had in this area!

One thing I truly enjoyed doing was taking a tour of Laza Village. From the Shahdag Mountain Resort itself, you can rent a 4x4 car with a driver (only required in winter due to the icy roads) to take you to the village, it’s frozen waterfalls & lakes. The tour takes about 1 hour and is totally worth it!

Overnight stay in Shahdag.

Day 4: Baku via Candy Cane & Yanar Dag

On this day, return to Baku with a quick detour to Candy Cane Mountains. About 2 hours from Shahdag, you will arrive at these unique shale mountains, renowned for their striking red, orange, pink, and chalk-colored swirls, which resemble candy canes. The vibrant colors are caused by groundwater altering the oxidation state of iron compounds within the rock. You can spend about 30-40 min here climbing these mountains to enjoy unique vantage point views.

From here, about 1.5 hrs away is Yanar Dag, also known as the "Burning Mountain," a natural gas fire that continuously blazes on a hillside on the Absheron Peninsula. The flames, which can reach up to 3 meters (9.8 feet) high, are fueled by a steady seep of natural gas from the subsurface. This phenomenon has been burning for thousands of years and is a significant cultural and historical landmark in Azerbaijan.

Note: you have the option to buy a ticket only to see Yanar Dag or a combo ticket to also visit the Fire Temple. Remember that the Fire Temple is not in the same complex, it is about a 25-min drive away, in Baku. Buy the combo ticket only if you plan to visit the temple in Baku, within the next 72 hours (validity period of the combo ticket).

Finally, head to Baku which is only a 20-min drive away. Overnight in Baku.

Day 5: Shamakhi & Ismayilli

About 1.5-hour drive from Baku, you will arrive at a historical city known for its rich cultural heritage and scenic landscapes, Shamakhi. Some sights to see here include:

• Juma Mosque: A significant religious and historical site, built in the 8th century, one of the oldest mosques in the Caucasus. It features Islamic architecture and has been beautifully restored after several earthquakes.
• Silent Lake: A very peaceful place, where you can enjoy boating, walking around the lake, or simply enjoy a meal at Sakit Gol - Silent Lake Hotel.
• Meysari Winery: A picturesque vineyard in Shamakhi, known for its organic wine production. The winery offers guided tours where you can explore the vineyards, learn about the winemaking process, and enjoy wine tastings. The scenic views of the surrounding mountains and the eco-friendly practices make it a delightful experience for wine enthusiasts.
• Alpaca Farm: Set amidst green pastures, the farm is home to friendly alpacas that you can meet, feed, and even hug.

At the end of the day, head to Ismailli or Gebele, depending on where you are choosing to stay for the night.

Day 6: Gabala

Gabala or Qabala is yet another popular destination for skiing and snowboarding in winter and hiking and mountain biking in summer. It features scenic cable car rides through snow-capped peaks to the Tufandag Mountain Resort, which also offers activities such tubing, etc. One of the popular rides here is the Mountain Swing. If you’ve had your share of snow activities in Shahdag already (which is a better one), then you can skip this and head to Nohur Lake instead.

While I wasn’t necessarily impressed with Nohur Lake (I do have high standards for lakes after visiting too many gorgeous ones in Switzerland, New Zealand, Norway, Austria & Calgary), it is a peaceful location where you can enjoy a nice meal, boat ride or a walk around the lake. However, it was quiet during the winter, and I imagine it’s a much better place to visit during warmer months.

ATV Rides to the Russian Border: While this was an impromptu plan for us, recommended by one of the locals, it turned out to be quite exciting, thanks to the fresh snow that had covered the mountains and the roads we drove our ATVs on. The tour lasted about 1 hour, where we drove uphill to a point offering hot tea & coffee and took a lot of photos along the way. The views are quite spectacular.

Khal Khal Waterfall: If you have a bit of time during the day, you may visit Khal Khal waterfall that lies in Oghuz, about an hour’s drive from Gabala. It’s a nice area developed around a waterfall, with many picnic areas, walking paths & a restaurant. It was a bit quiet in the winter when we visited, especially on a weekday, making it even more charming for us to walk around just by ourselves.

End your day with a nice meal at Soyuq Bulaq Restaurant, located at the riverside in Qabala. It’s a very charming area, decorated with festive lights, offering riverside enclosed private seating, creating a very romantic atmosphere. The food is excellent too! Stay overnight in Qabala.

Day 7: Baku

On the last day of your one-week winter itinerary in Azerbaijan, drive back to Baku from Gabala, which takes about 3.5 hours. Spend the day exploring Baku's unique architecture and capturing photos of its remarkable buildings. Here are three of the most unique architectural landmarks in Baku, aside from the famous Flame Towers:

Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center: The Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center is bound to catch your attention while driving through Baku, thanks to its fluid, wave-like structure that breaks away from traditional rigid architectural forms. The building's continuous, flowing lines create a dynamic and futuristic appearance, making it totally photograph worthy.

The center houses a museum, an exhibition hall, and an auditorium. Inside, you can explore exhibitions on Azerbaijani culture and history, contemporary art displays, and even a classic car collection.

Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum: Visible from the Baku Boulevard, the building itself is designed to resemble a rolled-up carpet, reflecting the museum's focus on Azerbaijani carpet weaving. This unique design makes it a standout structure along Baku's seafront. If carpets are something that interest you, you could visit the museum which boasts the largest collection of Azerbaijani carpets in the world, showcasing various weaving techniques and materials from different periods.

Ateshgah - Fire Temple: The Ateshgah, or Fire Temple, is a pentagonal complex with a central courtyard surrounded by cells for monks and a central altar where a natural gas flame once burned. Its architecture reflects a blend of Persian and Indian influences and is today a museum where you can learn about its history as a place of worship for Zoroastrians, Hindus, and Sikhs. The exhibits include religious artifacts, historical documents, and displays explaining the significance of fire worship.

HamamBath: It is the perfect way not only to end the day but also your 1 week in Azerbaijan in winter – visiting a wellness and bath complex designed to offer a relaxing and rejuvenating experience. HamamBath features a variety of services and facilities, including massages, a snow room, and a Ukrainian bath.

The complex also includes a restaurant that serves delicious dishes and sweets, enhancing the overall relaxation experience. HamamBath is a great place to unwind and enjoy a range of wellness treatments in a serene environment. Their hammams space for women is slightly more limited than men, so make sure to book in advance or you may not be able to find a reservation, especially on a weekend!

Other things to do in Azerbaijan (optional) if you have additional time:

• Sheki: From Gebele

Located only 1.5 hrs ahead of Gebele, Sheki is a charming town known for its rich history and beautiful architecture. It's worth visiting for its stunning Sheki Khan's Palace, with intricate stained-glass windows and detailed frescoes. The town's old streets, traditional handicrafts, and delicious local sweets like Sheki halva add to its appeal. If you’re lucky and it has just snowed, you will be able to enjoy the picturesque snowy landscape, making it perfect for exploring the historic sites and enjoying the cozy atmosphere. Don't miss visiting the Church of Kish and the local markets for a unique experience.

• Xinaliq: From Quba

Located only 1.5 hrs from Quba, Xinaliq or Khinalug is a remote village located in the Greater Caucasus Mountains. The village is blanketed in snow during winter, making for extremely picturesque landscapes. You could enjoy a winter hike or explore the village's traditional stone houses and ancient mosques. Having a 4x4 makes it much easier to explore this area, especially during winters.

• Ganja & Lake Göygöl: From Gebele

Located about 2.5 hrs away from Gebele, Ganja is the gateway to one of the prettiest lakes of Azerbaijan, Lake Göygöl. In extremely winter, the lake freezes over, adding to the beauty of the surrounding snowy landscapes. When not frozen, the lake has stunning blue waters & is undoubtedly one of the top natural wonders worth exploring in the country. Grab a picnic and enjoy the charming atmosphere of the place. Alternatively, grab a bite at GöyGöl Restaurant at the GoyGol Lake Resort that offers a cozy atmosphere and serves both Azerbaijani and European cuisines. The resort also features a teahouse where you can enjoy a relaxing tea break.

• Mud Volcanoes in Gobustan: From Baku

Located about 1.5 hrs south of Baku are this unique & fascinating natural phenomenon. These volcanoes constantly bubble and ooze cold mud, creating an otherworldly landscape. It's worth visiting for the surreal scenery and the chance to see the mud volcanoes up close, as well as the nearby ancient petroglyphs at Gobustan National Park.